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" Be the change you want to see in the world
"
Mahatma Gandhi
Disclaimer:
The material on this website is to be used
at your own discretion.
I highly suggest working with a Holistic veterinarian
as every animal is different and may have different needs.
Always seek the help of a liscensed, preferably
Holistic veterinarian regarding health issues.
The little sanctuary my cats call home
.........
I bought a nice little ranch in mid 2009 with
a few acres so I've been quite busy moving in and getting myself and the cats settled.
I created a really nice cozy little area for my Persians
with a whimsical charm to it. I have everything I need, where I need it. This makes caring for my cats a
much simpler task.
For the protection of my program, visitors are not allowed inside.
Which, is the reason for the large window and glass panel door - so they can at least see inside. I've always wanted
that and now I have it !
I am happy to share these photos of what I have done so far,
as I know everyone is always curious about the environment a breeder raises their cats in. Very few have
photos of the environment on their websites so I hope you enjoy them......
I'll start the tour just outside
the cattery...........
Here's is the area I visit with people
and talk "cat" stuff. I also serve holiday dinners at this table, as it is quite spacious and everyone loves
the atmosphere. This is an old vintage Paul Bunyan table set made of Pine - over 3" thick. With the 2 leafs it
is over 8 feet long. I've had it for years and I am so glad I have a place to set it up .....
This is a vintage cabinet I use for some of my collectibles.........
On the wall, opposite the table, I sort of
threw this together and I really like it. Bought the clock, later bought a wreath and found they go great together.
I added the little owl on the right side of the wreath.....
Just inside the downstairs door, by the cat room
is a "disinfecting" station. Here vistors have easy access to hand sanitizer & lotion via the wall mount....and
center pull paper towels above.
Everyone "washes" upon entry and exit to protect
my cats and themselves and animals at home.
Quick Wash / Disinfecting Station for visitors.....
Below, is the entry to the cattery. The lights
at the back of the cattery are on timers. The lights just inside the door are remote control so that
I do not waste energy.
To the right of the entryway you can
see an old vintage bench I found... and adopted. I put it in front of the heater and just above that is a
coat rack - great for drying coats on rainy, wintery days.....
Well, let's go inside and take a look around....
If you look carefully near the ceiling inside
the cattery, you'll see I've hung some neat little birdhouses filled with spanish moss and feathered birds. I just think
they are adorable. The clock I got at the salvation army, cleaned it up and I bought a new movement for it
that has the Westminster Chimes, etc. That was my first time replacing a clock movement and I actually got it right
the first try. Nice to listen to it in the cattery.
Just inside, the play area mainly for the young
kittens and mothers. The wire shelving works great
for perches on the walls. The mirror so they can gaze at their beauty ;-)) I also made a wide ledge so they can
sit at the window. The big TV is in a corner cabinet just across so they like to sit and watch now and then. The
Giraffe is a hanging scratcher.
Wood is not really ideal for a cattery as
it is porous, but I really liked the look and wanted it. So, the wood in here is heavily varnished, all the seams
between every board, top and bottom of the baseboards, the doorway threshold, etc. is clear silicone caulked to
seal and protect the wood and also make it easy clean. Let me tell you, that was quite a job, but I
did it.
All wood furniture pieces are on Magic Sliders so they are not sitting on the floor to further protect them.
That goes for the cradle, wood airplane, play chairs, etc.
The floor is linoleum, tile would have been better but I liked the design alot - it is not glued
down - just laid over the floor and the edges sealed - so it can be easily removed if necessary.
Since I went with the linoleum, my cat's claws
are religiously checked and blunted as needed before they run around.
Here is a better view of the play area. I relax
in the rocking chair and if I don't, you know a cat will claim it. The plug outlets are all capped /baby
proofed when not in use. Most are up high anyway but I do have a few low ones.....we don't want any little tongues being
inquisitive - ouch ! I made a sisal swing they like to play with too.
This is what I use for a birthing box.
I was never fond of wire cages and they were time consuming to clean and even then, they were just unsightly. These
plastic boxes are roomy and give mom the privacy she wants while letting in good light. Best of all they are easy
to clean. I can attach a water bottle to one of the doors and litter boxes slide in easily on an angle. I've placed
the box on a table above the electric baseboard heater so I can control the heat in the whole box - stays nice and cozy for
newborns. My mom's wouldn't stay on heating pads with the babies - they wanted a cooler spot and the babies needed the
heat so this works great since the whole box stays warm. Far less worries for me.
Each of my cats also has one of these boxes for themselves,
they love them. I just attach a "ramp" to the boxes for those running the immediate area so they can go in and out of
their "house" as they please.
The others are obviously just out in the seperate play
area with no access to their boxes. They all have their own litter boxes, water bottles, food bowls, bedding, etc.
in their box. It is their own space that no other cat has access too and they are quite content.
I also do not put my boys in a seperate room
from the girls. They are more content to be together and the boys enjoy the company and activity. They all
are quite used to each other as well, which makes breedings more agreeable. I find it keeps the boys happier when
they are not segregated. They are rarely vocal and when they are, it is usually because I have broken schedule for some
reason - they expect things at certain times but you know how life can mess up your schedule some days. The boys let
me know.
Birthing Box....................
Below is the grooming table on the other
side of the play area. This area is mainly where the adults stay. I'm still in process of working on it but
it is functional for now. I love these desks - they are wood so they needed to be well varnished. The slide out
drawers hold the tools I need for grooming. I have a center pull paper towel dispenser just above which is so handy. I
have a remote control light above the table, I just pull the controller out of the drawer on the right and click it on
- love it.
This is also where I dry the cats after a bath
- I put an exhaust fan in the window which pulls most of the flying hair out of the room. In winter, I usually just
cover the carrier they are dried in, with a towel..... it cuts down alot on flying hair. I check the cat
frequently to be sure they don't overheat.
I will be working on an outdoor run for the adults which they
will be able to access at leisure through a window door via the window above the grooming table. Nest to the run
will be a bird garden for interest and stimulation.
Grooming Area ( in process )..........
This is the Utility Sink/Laundry center - as you
can see it is fenced off from the cats for their safety. I used the garden center vinyl fencing - zip tied them together
and I can open it up if I need to. It fits right against the sink and the washer is a top loader so I rarely have
to open this up since I can access both with this in place.
Here is the utility sink. I have my most used
shampoos, degreasers, conditioner, etc. each labeled in their own dispenser just above the sink - the tops pop
off and the canisters remove for easy refills. This is fabulous, no bottles to mess with and I have what I need in an
instant, with one hand. Just above the sink is a wire rack for the microfiber towels I use to wick water from
the cat's coats - those are great. I also use it to dry the cat's dishes after I wash them. I clip my wet hand
gloves to the rack along with wet brushes, etc. so they can air dry. I have a sprayer that connects to the faucet
which I use for washing the cats. Hanging off the faucet you can see my sponge holder - I also use it to hold
the soft baby toothbrushes I use for cleaning the corners of the cat's eyes during a bath as well as another brush
for their toenails. Yes, toenails can get dirty too and checking them during a bath is a great habit to develop.
The big wall paper brush to the right is fantastic
for washing litter boxes. It is soft enough that it gets all the curves while being strong enough to scrub well.
I wash my cat's boxes every single day, inside and out before refilling them. It prevents odors from inhibiting the
plastic, which can cause lingering odors in a cattery - aside from the fact that is basic hygiene.
The washer also empties here as you can see by the
black hose.
This is quite a busy little spot ;-)
This is the Holmes Air Cleaner I keep inside
the cattery - I have a small setup since I only have a few cats so this works just fine. ....
This is my Bissell Garage Pro wallmount wet/dry
shop vac with a 32 foot hose and multiple attachments that I use to vacuum the cattery. It works great - even with that
long hose it has strong suction and it is quieter than any other model I've come across. Easy to empty and it
is up, out of the way, I only have a hose to drag around.
Just above the hose is my lithium battery
charging station for some power tools. I've always been pretty handy.
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Feeding
Cats are, by nature, obligate carnivores. While packaged,
commercial foods are convenient and easy to feed- they are not what our felines are designed to eat. Hence the plethora
of health issues that seem to plague our cats from Diabetes, Kidney Failure, IBD to Cystitis, etc.
I will refer you to this article for expert opinion/advise by
Lisa A. Pierson, DVM:
I raise my breeding cats with a raw meat diet. I add a
blend of coat/skin supporting oils and Kyolic Garlic. I use Kyolic because it contains no Allicin, which is found in
fresh garlic and can be toxic to cats. Garlic is great for the immune system, cardiovascular health, parasite control,
and has antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal properties, just to list a few benefits.
The cats have been quite healthy on this diet and don't
have IBD, on and off stool issues or "poop patty butts", no digestive issues, etc.
Himmies and oriental breeds can have a tendency to
be sensitive with regards to a raw meat diet, as they seem to lack more of the naturally occurring digestive enzymes
and would need enzymes added to their food until they start creating their own. The more removed from the
natural diet, through generations, the more problems the breeds develop.
It is also common for commercial food fed cats to have
some blood in the stools due to irritation in the lower intestines. Usually it dries to a dark brown
or the litter coats the stool and can hide it so many people don't notice it, unless the stool is very loose.
I was told years ago by a few breeders that this is basically a
given with the cats, but it just didn't seem right. Hence my venture towards natural rearing.
As a result of feeding the cats a diet closely resembling
what they would be eating in a natural habitat, they have great stools with none of the visible blood due to intestinal irritation,
common to commercial food fed cats. And, they are much hardier.
I cut my own meats and usually use Chicken, sometimes
with a little turkey mixed in. I usually alternate every few weeks with Beef.
To this meat, I add Feline Instincts
supplement powder designed for completing a raw meat diet. ( click on banner below to visit the site). There is
a powdered formula for recipes using bone or recipes without bone. I usually cut up chicken necks in the chicken batches
for the "with bone" recipe.
The beef batches I use the supplement powder with the added calcium.
It is a fairly simple diet to make, just a little effort involved.
Kittens get their meats finely minced not only because
they have such tiny mouths but they are gluttons and try to swallow too much - they love this food. I'm usually sitting
with them, pair of tweezers handy just in case some little piglet needs me to clear their throat. I usually mix
in some of my special made baby formula so they get extra calories. Most breeders use Nutri-Cal but it contains sodium
benzoate which can build up to toxic levels in a cat's liver- since cast do not have the ability to process toxins like humans
- they lack the enzyme needed which is one reason they seem to suffer more problems related to the adjuvants/chemicals/preservatives
in vaccines and drugs, etc...
Once the kittens have been off milk for a few weeks
and are used to eating meats, I also start adding some of Nature's Logic canned food, primarily chicken, duck or rabbit.
This allows my adopters to have a choice of food they can feed, that the kittens are used to. I still strongly urge everyone
to add some raw meats to the diet. I also strongly urge them to keep the cat on a wet diet as that is what they
are designed for. Dry foods are hard on the kidneys and their digestive systems.
Nature's Logic is the best canned I've found, since
all the vitamins and minerals are naturally derived - no synthetics. The cans area also lined so the food does not come
in contact with the metal. I usually find this online at Pet Food Direct or a local pet specialty
store.
Once a month I will give the cats canned mackerel for a treat,
which they love. I may also make chicken soup and give them a bowl of that too.
The cats also get filtered water as tap water can contain
contaminates like chlorine, etc. These contaminates can also have a negative effect on any homeopathy you use.
Below are some examples of what my raw chicken
batches look like. They can be frozen in glass or ziploc bag serving sizes. or you can just make it as needed for 1
or 2 cats.
Yes, it can seem "gross" but raw meats are what
a cat is designed to eat, it just comes down to common sense really. It is second nature to me now so when
I make a batch, I think how good it is for my cats. Although, I do suggest you work with a more natural minded veterinarian
- a conventional vet is not trained in this manner.
Below, you can see my kittens eating their raw diet
- I use a puppy pan which is great for feeding a litter.
| Free Standing Water Bottles - No Mess Cleanliness |
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Healthcare Regimine
I use mainly herbals and homeopathy with my animals.
Many people use these terms interchangeably but they are
not the same thing.
Herbal medicine deals with herbs.
Homeopathy deals with homeopathic energy medicines derived from
any number of substances, repeatedly diluted to the point that there are no biologics left in the remedy. All that remains
is the "energy" of it. Potency differs depending on the amount of dilution - and the more diluted, the higher the potency.
You really need to have some education on these modalities if
you wish your efforts to give you results.
Otherwise you do more floundering trying to get a quick fix and
you get nowhere. You need to understand the root cause and pay attention more to symptoms than the "name" of a problem.
Dealing with the symptoms is how you progress as they may vary greatly.
I'll share some important facts about each modality, which
everyone should know beforehand........
Important Homeopathic Use
Guidelines
Homeopathic remedies
are energy medicines and should not be kept on metal surfaces, near a Computer, TV, VCR, anything electrical, etc.
Keep them out of the sun/ultraviolet light. They should
never be placed anywhere near magnets or X-ray machines either.
Do not use Homeopathy ( including Homeopathic Nosodes ) with
herbs or food - wait a while ( about a half hour ) before consuming herbs or herbal teas and such.
Most practitioners will advise 15 minutes before or after using
a remedy.
Try to avoid handling with your hands also. Use the
bottle cap to pour the pellets into. Make sure you have not handled essential oils, lotions, creams, camphor, mint,
onion, garlic, anything of strong odors, etc. That includes using essential oil diffusers and room deodorizers
/ fresheners and strong cleaners. Your hands should be very clean, odor free and dry when handling.
You should wait preferably a good hour before and after taking
a remedy yourself to brush your teeth / use mouthwash- especially with a minty toothpaste as it will nullify the effects
of your Homeopathy.
Also, do not use tap water if you dissolve your remedy in
water for use. Tap water contains chemicals such as chlorine, among other undesireables to make it "safe" for human
consumption. What is in the treated tap water can negatively impact your remedies. Please use spring or distilled
water.
It is also important to note that built up toxins from drugs, chemical cleaners/exposure,
preservatives in packaged foods, pesticides, etc. in the body, can impede the effectiveness of your homeopathy.
Animals seem to respond much more readily to homeopathy than humans as they
usually are not as "toxic".
Important Herbal
Guidelines
Always use Organic or Wildcrafted herbs and herbs that
are not irradiated if you possibly can. If you are using herbs for medicinal reasons, there is no point if they
are not Wildcrafted or Organic. All crops are sprayed with insecticides, etc. and you will just be adding these toxins
to your body by ingesting these treated herbs.
Look for brightly colored, fresh looking herbs also.
Leafy herbs such as Alfalfa, Mint, Comfrey, Nettles, Catnip, etc. should have retained their bright, green color.
Flower top herbs such as Red Clover and Calendula,
Chammomile, etc. should stay brightly colored if picked and dried properly. If you order herbs and they are brown -
send them back ! ( aside from those that are normally brown like bark herbs, some root herbs etc. ) They should
refund your shipping also as the herbs were low quality and you should be recouped the costs for your inconvenience due to
their inferior product.
Your dried herbs should look almost just picked for optimal
medicinal quality. Use within 2 years - properly store away from moisture, heat and light in a cool, dark
area - preferably in glass jars. Plastic jars are OK too, just make sure the container is very clean and dry.
Do not use copper or aluminum pots, pans, kettles or utensils
when using herbs for medicinal purposes such as in teas, etc. You will ruin the medicinal qualities. Use only
Stainless, enameled, glass as well as wooden, stainless, plastic utensils. That includes teaballs for loose tea - stainless
only...including the chain attached to them if there is one...or remove it.
Keep your pots covered when making medicinal teas also
to retain their valuable qualities.
Cleaning Regimine
I do not use chemical surface/floor cleaners, laundry
detergents, air fresheners, essential oils, etc. to clean.
Essential Oils can be toxic to cats
and I will refer you to these two sources for some great information.....
Most of my cleaning is done with biodegreadeable soaps
and I use a Vapor Steamer for deep cleaning things such as sisal posts and porous materials as well as the cattery in general.
Virus and fungus are easily killed in this manner - with no chemicals. Dust mites can be killed at 135 degrees, flea
eggs at about 140 degrees and bacteria such as E-Coli can be killed at 165 degrees. Virus minimum - 160 degrees.
Wrapping the end of the wand/nozzle with microfiber helps hold
the heat in and keep it more consistent which is why many steamers come with these little covers to fit the attachments.
The temperature when using each attachment can vary as well.
You can check the temperature coming out of your wand, with a thermometer that can reach the higher degrees such as a meat
or candy thermometer.
When vapor steaming, follow the manufacturers directions
for effectiveness.
I will refer you to this fantastic resource for alot of
information on vapor cleaning and products...............
And a temperature conversion chart you'll find handy
as well.....
The Litter Box
You could spend literally $0 on litter, if you want.
I save a ton of money
here. I do have litter preferences when raising
cats for show but once they are retired to breeding, this is my choice.
I tried many different kinds of litters when I started
raising Persians, as you likely do.
I find people tend to want to "pamper" and buy the best
of everything for their pets and I was one of them. I did that with foods to toys to litter and realized it was a waste
of hard earned money.
Toys - the cats loved simple things, furry mice, scratch
posts of sisal, balls, paper bags and boxes and paper tubes as well as feathers.
Foods, I tried top of the line dried foods and some
canned ( you know, the ones everyone who is anyone uses and the "Best" on the market the vet recommended" - and each
vet had a different idea of what the Best was, etc.) and no matter what "best" food I fed, I always
had some health issues from bad stools ( many times with some blood in it- which you may find if you dissect it since litter
hides alot), skin and coat issues, urinary tract infections in a few cats due to diet change since it
changes the body PH, etc. it was really frustrating.
I tried every odor control, air freshening, multi-cat,
clumping, non-clumping, etc. litter there was.
Many litters they hated - didn't like the tiny pieces
in their toes, the smell of the litter was too strong ( you figure a cat's sense of smell is 10X what ours is - imagine a
super strength odor control litter in a covered box ! A few refused to use certain litters and would go in front of
the box instead ;-).
Then I realized - I am raising naturally and litter can
have as big an impact on health as commercial "dead" foods, drugs and vaccines, etc.
Most litters today are extremely harmful with all their
chemicals certainly contributing to health issues whether the chemicals are breathed in or when the cats ingest them when
they clean their feet. And exposure also happens with chemical floor cleaners, pesticides the pets walk on in the
yard or that we bring in on our shoes, etc. You are unknowingly
poinsoning your pets.
Clay litters contain dust, etc. and can damage the lungs
and airways and clay is also basically pure aluminum which is detrimental to the body. Clumping litters can be eaten
by kittens and cause gastrointestinal issues. Many litters stick to the bottom of pans such as wheat litters and clay
litters when wet, they are like lead and can be time consuming trying to clean the box out.
I tried lining the boxes with plastic bags and liners,
etc. to help ( more money on top of the litter wasted - they usually got ripped too).
So now, I use newspapers and I have for a number of years.
I will change them 2X in a day if I see more than
one urine spot, or a urine spot and a poop. Most of the time one change a day is all that is needed. It is so
much cleaner than dealing with litter, took a while to get used to it but now I love it. It also allows you to moniter urine
better than with other litters.
To clean the boxes, I wear dish gloves, grasp one end of
the paper, roll it up with all the waste inside and pack them in a paper bag for the fireplace outside and use the ashes
in the gardens. Or, you can just throw them in a compost heap.
The box is then washed and refilled.
I also wash my gloved hands between every box I empty and
wash. Hygiene is very important.
You can use plain white paper or kraft paper for boxes as well.
I will usually use krinkle kraft paper for kittens I am raising for show.
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Use black and white newsprint - colored ink can be
toxic obviously. But if you are in a bind and need to use it - sandwich it in the middle so the cat isn't actually on it.
I've done it for years - on and off myself if I am low on paper and never a problem.
Lay a section of newsprint in the
box - opened in the middle. Lay your glossy fliers, magazine sections inside ( I tear magazines in half and
can lay a section side by side in the bottom ). Fold the other half of the newsprint back inside the box so the glossy
papers and fliers are sandwiched in the middle. I prefer a decent thickness of about 1/4 inch which absorbs
well.
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Now my bottom is done - with the
edges of the papers slightly riding up the sides of the box for easy grasping when changing. I then take a few sections
of plain newsprint ( not glossies or heavily printed flyers) and
I shred them up on top - grabbing and tearing at the folded end, you'll figure out which way to tear so you get strips.
Don't make wide strips - try to tear them on the thin side.
** Wear dish gloves - it gives a good grip for tearing and you
don't get ink rubbing off on your hands.
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This is probably my favorite litter for kittens I
am preparing for show. Great ammonia control and it is less costly than World's Best Cat Litter. The texture is
fluffy, reclaimed paper pulp. I just throw it in the compost heap when I clean the boxes so it gets recycled ;-)
This is the best deal I've found ..........
Huge, 60 Litre factory size bag at a fantastic price -
even with shipping !
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World's Best Cat Litter is also a great, natural litter.
It is made of corn, is safe, biodegradeable, flushable,
etc.
It is pricey, so search around. It is the litter
of choice with the mechanical self-cleaning litter boxes
I use this litter when I go to shows.
I also give a 7Lb. bag of it to my new kitten adopters
with coupons for future purchases.
I've found a great source/price here for you......
A 58 LB Big Box AND Discount Shipping !
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Outdoor Kennels..............
Are a blessing for your cats !
Get your animals outside on nice days - they are
a living being, not things to be locked inside 4 walls. As I've said before, emotional well being plays an equally important
role in physical well being.
Exposure to life is what builds and strengthens immunity.
You don't need a huge area - something like this
is just fine if you don't have alot of space or need it to be moveable.
I added a wire top using rolled fencing and I
zip-tied the mesh shade cover over that. Works beautifully and the cats enjoy it immensely. You do have to put these together, I am quite handy so I can do it myself - you may want to have
someone do it for you.
Add a carrier for them to hide in if they are new
to this pleasure. Remember to put in a water bottle or bowl and a scratch post - either one you can tie to the side
of the kennel or a free standing one. I let the cats use a log - they love the wood.
End Note.............
If you are a breeder and decide to change your program to raw,
I strongly advise breeders with established programs to start with new kittens you keep or acquire. Trying to change
over older cats, when you have a large program especially, will frustrate you and you will give up. I am experienced
at it, know how to go about everything and dealing with older cats is not an issue for me. You don't have the benefit
of my experience to deal with so much all at once. Just go slowly, get educated on alternatives and start creating a
new program with the young. Gradually retire and place the cats in your conventional program.
It will be tough for a while, but don't give up, the rewards
are many if you apply yourself and stay focused. Set yourself goals, write them down and accomplish each of them. Throw
a party for each one you accomplish, it was hard work to get there so celebrate it !
Once you get the hang of things, it is second nature, piece
of cake, it really is - like learning anything in life.
The road you travel to get to your destination is always rough,
full of turns, trenches, ruts. What awaits at the end of that road, is worth everything. All your experiences
happened only to teach you, they are things we learn from. Never look at something as a bad experience, look at it as
a learning experience, now you know what you didn't know, you are learning, growing, one step at a time.
Don't let anyone tell you that you can't do something, don't
tell yourself you can't. There is nothing in this world you cannot do if you set your mind to it and figure it out.
If I listened to every breeder or conventional vet that
said I couldn't raise healthy animals, purebred Persians to boot, without conventional drug use or commercial foods, I would
have never known what I could accomplish - I never was a follower.
I am setting a standard, and someday, maybe you will
better my standard.
Dont' think, don't procrastinate, just do it.
You can be guaranteed the following will grace your life, when
raising naturally ........................
You will definitely downsize as this requires a bit
more effort - so you will have a healthier, more manageable program.
You will be a happier, healthier breeder who can enjoy their
"hobby" again, instead of being a slave to it - and emotionally & financially drained trying
to deal with health issues.
In due time, you will ask yourself, why didn't I do this
sooner, why doesn't everyone else do this ??
And I am sure there will be those few who will just think I am
crazy. But I'd rather be the crazy person without the health problems
and expense in my program that they have to deal with in theirs !
For natural insect control, cleaning, etc. visit my Recommended Reading page for some great books !
Click here to go to my " Recommended Reading " page for a brief summary of books on natural rearing, health, insect control,
natural cleaning, etc. !
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